A Change in Latitude

While we love our lifestyle living on a boat, recently we had been pretty homesick - actually "familysick".  We needed to see everyone we love and care about, and, truth be told, a little break from the boating life sounded more than fine.  Change is always good - it makes you appreciate what you have and keeps life from becoming stale.  And at our ages now we try not to get in a rut.  Soooo - we found a very good air fare from San Juan, Puerto Rico, to Chicago and set off for the 3 hour sail from the Virgin Islands to Culebra, one of the Spanish Virgins 20 miles off the mainland of PR.  We found Culebra unchanged from previous visits, which means it is still a somewhat shabby little place with lots of dogs and chickens running around.  But the anchorage in Ensonada Honda is safe with a large  number of boats anchored around us to watch over Megerin while we are gone. The cruising community is active and friendly and the dinghy dock easy to reach.  We discovered a place called Zaco's Taco's with delicious fresh ingredients - yum.  The ferry ride to the mainland is $1 for seniors, so off to San Juan and then the US for 2 weeks.  When we return we will sail back to St. John and then the BVI's with only 40 days before our return June 1st for summer/fall in Sewickley.

View from our hotel in Old Town San Juan

Old San Juan

Narrow Cobblestone streets in Old San Juan

Our hotel the El Convento

Old San Juan

Narrow streets lead right to the water

A non-stop flight from San Juan took us to some chilly but mostly pretty weather in the Windy City.
Of course, we had no clothes but a trip to Macy's solved that problem for the week.  We had some great meals, especially Joe's Crab House, and a new one - City Winery in the West Loop.

Definitely a change in latitude - and attitude - view from street in front of Megan's building in the West Loop of Chicago.  We love this area as it has been gentrified the past few years and all the "in" restaurants are here.

This sweet silly dog-person named Audrey was waiting for us when we got to Chicago.  She is so lucky to be adopted by Megan!  What a life she leads with comfortable cushy surfaces to lie on,  an abundance of toys, elevator rides up and down to her walks.  Life is good for Audrey.  We also like this city life - nice doormen, walk to numerous eating/drinking establishments, a 5 minute bus ride downtown for shopping - not too shabby for boat people.

Audrey thinks she should also be at the buffet.

Signs of Spring in Chicago

Amazing breakfast pizza in Chicago

The limited availability of good fresh food in the islands have made us appreciate these kinds of scenes in the USA.   Amazing.  This is the French Market in Chicago.

Couldn't resist one last picture.

After a week in Chicago we drove Megan's car to Pittsburgh (she left on a trip to Amsterdam and Italy),
and took Audrey with us to visit family and new additions to the Madson family - puppies Henry and Theo.  Guess Erin and Mark just have to have a full house !  It was great to have some beautiful Spring days in Pittsburgh.  Here are a few pics.  Now back to the Caribbean we go !

Beautiful

Henry and Theo

Love Spring !

Henry and his older brother Cooper on a walk in fine Spring weather

It's now Easter Sunday so here's a brief wrap up.

 Just a few pics from Anegada - we really grew to appreciate it this time more than we had before.  I like the dramatic hills of the BVI islands and Anegada is flat like the Bahamas, but the beaches are beautiful and it's nice for a change.

We didn't catch it but sure did cook it - after Jim and Ray did some major surgery.

Great to spend time together.

The colors here are amazing at Cow Wreck, Anegada

Conch shells everywhere

Ready for sunset watching on Cow Wreck

After Jim left Ray got to snorkeling with friend Jerry who caught this huge lobster.  We fed about 8 people that night - this poor guy!

Our big thrill lately are the Luci lanterns Jim brought down for us - living on a sailboat means you have to be energy conscious all the time, and these little things are inflatable solar lamps with bright LED lights.  We just hang them out in the ever present sun daily and have bright light at night - NO batteries.  Love them.

On St. John there is a place called Concordia, which is an eco-resort.  On Monday nights they have open mike night where anyone with talent (or not, I guess) can come to jam with the house band.  Usually there are some of the same but also travelers, maybe on vacation or frequently someone from a visiting band to the island.  Anyway, we get treated to some great music in an incredible setting.

Check out the view

Sky above the band

Beautiful reflection on the water.

Where Have All the Hippies Gone?

     The answer is.....Coral Bay.

Coral Bay, on the south side of St. John, was the center of plantation life in early 18th century, and there are still a few ruins laying around.  Now it is known as a home for some eccentric sailors and artistic types who want to keep the same laid back and somewhat seedy atmosphere it has always had.  Donkeys roam free, along with the goats and chickens.  But since it now has some great restaurants, bars, and art shops, it is being discovered more and more by tourists. 

Recently, Ray, Jim and I went to a place there called Pickles, which is a deli/bar with a backyard.  To give you an example of how quirky this place is - the bathroom also has shelves of books for sharing with titles such as "A Study in Existential Philosophy"!  The occasion was a benefit for a guy called Mike who has the ice cream truck, from which he fell and broke his foot and needs to go to Florida for a major fix.  We had heard there was going to be music, so thought we would like to see it.  No one told us the theme was 60’s hippie - but as Jim said, I don’t think it was much of an effort for anyone to find clothes to wear.  The whole community came out in support and to have fun on a beautiful night where the sea breezes mixed with the aroma of a certain herb which is now legal in some states.  We had a blast!  (Drug free)

Mike himself performed early on - from his wheelchair. All evening different people performed in a jam session.
 $7, 000 was raised that night.

Glad he clarified he is talking about edible crabs.

Even in hippie-land they have to check their iPhones.

Are they getting married?

Don't worry-Be Hippy

Is this an AARP convention?

The end of the night the evolving band really rocked.  We have seen Channing, the girl playing the clarinet, before and she is so talented.

Jim and Ray 

Unique use for a conch shell in a bathroom.

At Ivan's Stress free bar we hung up a new Steeler towel - look closely for our names on it.

February 2016 (posted in March - oops)

"Life on this planet is not free."

                                  -Jim Day

   That’s my brother’s slightly smart-alec response when I told him how much our new boat part was going to cost.  Other people here just say “It’s a boat!”.  Some definitions of a boat are:

• A hole into which you pour money
• BOAT - Bring out another thousand

Anyway, we were happily floating around St. John for a week until Ray found 3 inches of water in the engine room.  Huh.  At first he thought it was the impeller but after investigation said “This is more serious than that and I can’t do it”.  We made the decision to go to Nanny Cay where we keep our boat and know the mechanics.  To avoid turning on the engine we sailed off the mooring ball headed for the BVI.  It was perfect sailing weather, lucky for us, but to go into the marina we would have to turn the motor on, which we didn’t want to do. Sooo, one of the dockhands came out in a big dinghy with a BIG outboard and lashed himself to the side of Megerin.  Then we steered, he powered and we were on the dock in no time.  One problem though, we had not cleared into the BVI yet and Nanny Cay is not a port of entry.  Naively, we thought the authorities would understand our predicament.  I hired a cab to take me to the West End of Tortola to check in while Ray took care of the boat.  When I walked in the the guilt must have wafted off of me.  Going into customs/immigration is frequently stressful.  They seem to enjoy watching the discomfort they cause and we have many stories from fellow cruisers who feel the same way.  I have even taken over the job since Ray doesn’t like dealing with them and most probably he is right that they take it easier on women.  Anyway, first (barked) question was “Where is your boat?”  Uh Oh - they never ask us that!  I did pause, then told the truth - “Nanny Cay”.  I proceeded to describe our “emergency”, etc. ( Much sweating)  I then received a very long lecture on what we should have done (called them), why they cannot tolerate this (who knows who/what we have on our boat), was shown the very large rule book to prove his point plus the $10,000 fine he could charge me.  Everyone knows you NEVER argue with the officials down here, so I didn’t point out that they never check our boat for anything or anyone when it is at the West End, that they never answer the VHF radio, etc.  Luckily, I got off with a warning, no fine, and escaped jail time.  However, never again!

Our mechanic came that same day but the heat exchanger part was not available on island, then it was coming on the ferry but didn’t, etc. etc.  After several days of having the boat totally torn up to get access to the engine it is finally done.  And while we were here we bought 225 feet of new anchor chain and put that on the boat.  

My brother Jim was arriving so he had to change his plans to come to St. John first and instead come directly to Tortola.  It was a little bit of a worry because if his plane was late he might not make the last ferry from St. Thomas.  Then he added to the stress by missing his flight out of BWI !  But he made to the ferry on time.  And the weather is beautiful!

Here are some of Jim's underwater pics from this year.

Can never resist another picture of the beautiful beach at Nanny Cay, Tortola.

Before Jim arrived we made sure to catch The Fiddler with his Sun Mountain band on St. John. He only performs here once a year and what a fun night - he is a great musician and song writer.  Since he is retiring after this year, so we really were glad to see him one last time in "the backyard" of Skinny Legs.

The Willie Thornton is an old, rusting schooner converted into a floating bar/restaurant in the Bight of Norman Island BVI.  Dinghies pull up, people climb aboard with the INTENT, frequently, of drinking as many Painkillers as they can.  Stories abound of wild partying on board, culminating with girls jumping naked off the top deck into the water for free tshirts.  However, when we were there, only a few guys jumped, and they had to sneak as it is now against the rules.  Jim did get some good pictures.

Christmas tree still up in February on the beach at White Bay, Jost van Dyke

A little slice of paradise

January 17, 2016

Benure's Bay on Norman Island has become our go-to place to unwind after the intense work of getting Megerin ready to sail again.  We love Nanny Cay and it is so interesting to watch all of the activity there-everyone is going somewhere or coming back from somewhere, people are climbing masts and polishing hulls, and spending money - usually lots of it.  So we have been here for four nights now doing not much of anything whenever we please and not spending a dime.   It is a secure bay with crystal clear water, no beach bars and good AT&T connection.  With food and drink in the fridge along with excellent weather it has been a happy place.  Today, on to Peter Island.

Last view at Nanny Cay beach

Aerial view of Benure's bay on Norman Island.  

View as we are going in to anchor - picture does not do it justice.

Flying Steeler colors in the BVI.  Across the water is the island of Tortola  which takes 1-1&1/2 hrs for us to sail to.  The lights are beautiful from here at night.

Sunset - looking toward the island of St. John in the USVI.

While snorkeling yesterday we saw this beautiful fish under a rock but didn't know what it was.  Looking it up on the internet I identified it as a lionfish, a venomous invasive fish that could cause disaster to the reefs as it is multiplying so rapidly it is killing small reef fish.  People are told if they see any to spear and kill it until they figure out a way to get rid of them on a larger scale.  Evidently they escaped from an aquarium in Florida in the "90's during a hurricane.

We saw this spooky guy yesterday and identified it as a file fish.  About 18 inches long.  We usually snorkel reefs close to shore thus see only smaller fish - fine with me, I'm a sissy snorkeler.  

Ahhhh……the BVI, what is it about them ?

January 6, 2016

   We woke at 3AM to make our 6:05 AM flight to St. Thomas via Miami.  Preparing for this lifestyle change seems to be getting easier, which is a little scary as we kept thinking “surely we have forgotten something very important”.  We rented a car the day before to leave at the airport, as last year Yellow cab was a near disaster,  returned our Comcast box,  forwarded the mail, cleaned the apartment - and managed to go out to eat at the Sewickley Hotel, our favorite pub, the night before. The flights were on time and smooth.  Then we got to the ferry terminal on St. Thomas.....actually nothing bad happened but the potential is so HUGE.  After purchasing tickets, the “bagman” - that name is actually printed on his shirt - comes around and very cheerfully takes your luggage out of your sight.  Will we ever see it again?  We proceed to the waterside waiting area, which is interesting - especially watching sea planes landing or taking off - but the most rivoting is watching them load the luggage on the ferry.  We were on the Bomba Charger, which has been around at least since the 1980’s, and it is known as the “fast ferry”.  The crew throws the suitcases from the dock to the boat (tip - do not put breakables in your suitcases),  and we watched to make sure ours did make it on instead of in the water first.  Then we board with absolutely no announcement that the ferry to Tortola is due to leave soon.  If you are not smart enough to hang around then “too bad”.  Also, there are no instructions re’ life saving equipment should the ferry get into trouble.  None.

   But, arriving at West End, Tortola, is still a thrill and the welcome at Nanny Cay Marina Hotel seems very genuine - we feel like we are at home!  Peg leg’s beach bar is the best we have been to and the same bartenders are there.  We get our usual - mango slaw for Sandy and chicken pot pie for Ray.  The pie is delicious and I wonder why I never try to make it.

    Before we left yesterday we were feeling nostalgic for Sewickley - the skies were crystal blue though the temps were below freezing -  but we realize again that a change in scenary is what makes us appreciate what we have.  And BVI scenery is amazing.

In the boatyard getting some bottom paint and hull polish.

  

What a morning view here at Nanny Cay.  I did not alter this photo at all.

     

Another year of sail, challenge, and hopefully good weather - gearing up for 2016

May 13, 2015

     As I’ve said before, I think I am more of a “blogee” than a blogger - evidence of that is the fact I have not posted ONCE since January.  I think there are many reasons for this but here are my theories:

 #1 -  I read so many absolutely wonderful blogs containing excellent photography, insightful and interesting writing, and obvious technical skills re’ making their site FUN, that I’m afraid my basic skills pale in comparison. 

#2 -   Also, there is the fact that we have just stayed in the Virgin Islands this year, so everything is a little “been there.... .seen that”.   Beautiful clear blue and emerald seas, gorgeous skies,  turtles swimming right by our boat at anchor, white sand beaches - nothing much to write about, right?  

#3 -   Not many people read it.  Actually true.  If you don’t do facebook you’re out of the loop.

   

Anyway,  now I’m wondering - what do we like/ love about our time on the boat? In other words, why are we floating around down here enduring some of the hardships (many) of living on a boat?  Everyone thinks it is paradise, but one thing I am very sure about is that there NO SUCH THING  as paradise.  Doesn’t exist.  Anywhere.  Of course, there are better places and worse places - no argument - but no paradise anywhere.

So, we have decided that we like challenge at this time in our lives.  We feel more alive when we have a challenge, a goal, a dream to pursue.  And living on a boat is definitely a challenge, which granted is a lot more fun in a tropical setting with beauty all around (we’re not dumb!).  Just knowing how to sail is only one little part of our lives.  And frankly, we don’t get enough of that.  We fix things a LOT.  We go here to do laundry, dragging it about a mile in a cart.  We go there to provision, carry large bags full of edibles to the dinghy, dinghy out to the boat which is pitching and rolling, haul it into the cockpit, then down the companionway steps into a sweltering cabin (closed and locked while ashore), stow stuff into various compartments so that it will not fall all over the place when we do move the boat.....ooph, tired, hot, sweaty.....and lets hurry up and motor to the protected anchorage an hour away so we can get a good nights sleep.  

But, when we get there - we do jump in the water for a swim, take a stern shower, then sit in the cockpit to watch another beautiful sunset.  Challenge of the day met.  Other challenges are keeping the boat, which is our home and car, in running order.  This challenge mostly falls on Ray, with my close supervision (kidding)....(a little).  Keeping Megerin running means having all the tools (yes, check) and the needed parts (trip to various stores because we never have the one we need).  This usually involves a lot of discussion with other boaters, an invaluable resource as so many people out there know so much and can’t wait to share their knowledge with you.  Almost always appreciated.  Which reminds me....

   What we also reallly, really love about this lifestyle are the people we meet.  Such fun.  People from different countries - a LOT of Canadians - People with so many experiences to share, such as sailing around the world - and we all instantly have so much in common.  This experience we do not have on land and it is hard to explain to land dwellers what it is like. 

Dec. 18, 2015

Well, I never did publish the above, but as the new year starts soon, I will try to keep up my blog  for 2016.
We have been in Pittsburgh almost 7 months and had a great time traveling to Chicago, the Hudson River Valley, South Carolina, Florida, and Malibu, California.  Since Mac is a freshman at UCLA we all spent Thanksgiving week out there and had a terrific time in the sunshine.We head back to Nanny Cay on Tortola, BVI, on Jan.6 .

Alyza (21), Charlotte (18), Gigi (12), and Jane (14) at the UCLA/USC game.

Mac (19) and Erin

In Chicago we watched the beginning of the Chicago to Mackinac sailing rally while visiting Megan.

Erin, Mark, Hines Ward and his wife, Megan.  Through Megan's good friend Angela they were invited to the opening party of Hines's new restaurant in Cranberry.

The California coastline

What's waiting for us in the Caribbean